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Category: Tibet

My first trip to Tibet was in 2006. This is the year I have the fondest memories. It was very wide open at that time because the railroad into Lhasa was not complete and there were few tourist. You still needed a permit but there was no tour guide requirement. I was able to take a bus, on my own, anywhere I like. People seemed friendlier as well. I don’t speak any Chinese and taught myself a few Tibetan phrases but it was still easy to get around.

But my fondest memory of all was during a bus ride from Shigatse to Shalu. During the ride it was only me and a small group of Tibetan women ranging in age from mid 20’s to very old. I was sitting across from them and they kept staring at me and giggling. Finally, the oldest of the group leaned over to me and grabbed the hair on my arm and they all started laughing! Apparently, from what I could tell, they rarely see a man with hair on his arms. Then they started pointing to my eyes. The only thing I could tell from that was that I have blue eyes which is rarely seen here. It is possible these women were on a pilgrimage from a remote area. That would explain their reaction. Made for a very memorable experience!

In 2007, the railroad was complete and changed things forever. I took 5 students here and I was surprised at the amount of tourist.

2013

This most recent trip saw many changes in Tibet. Mandatory guides, check points leaving and entering cities. Airport type screening when entering some monasteries, and popular shopping areas. Strict rules on the purchase of gas.

Many of these changes were imposed after serious rioting in 2008. The rules on purchasing gas is a sad reminder of the extent some Tibetans will go to show their opposition to Chinese occupation. Last year over 100 Tibetan lit themselves on fire with gas in protest of Chinese occupation and the exile of the Dali Lama.

That being said, I made the best of things and still saw some amazing things. For Monasteries, the ones that should not be missed are Sera, Yumbulagang, Samye and Tashilhunpo
Most memorable of 2013

Having the opportunity to visit Mount Everest was a highlight but the distance and road conditions really take away from the trip. Two events however, were extremely memorable for me. The first was when I decided to change my set itinerary to visit some smaller, often overlooked monasteries. One in particular was Nalendra. The scene driving up into the monastery, through the ruins as a result of the cultural revolution and to see rebuilding in progress was moving. But what really hit home was the time I spent with one Monk who offered me a meal and told me of the rebuilding. Something I will never forget.

The other was a much lighter note. It came when I visited Samye Monastery. While walking the inner Kora, I came across a good number of Monks practicing a dance as Tibetan horns were practiced in the background. The Monks were all smiling and joking. It really seemed they were having a great time and had no problem with me taking it all in. Fortunately I got some video so I can look back and remember this moment.

Yak Hotel

The Yak Hotel is by far my favorite hotel in Lhasa.  Over the four times I’ve visited Tibet, I always request the Yak Hotel based on my first visit in 2006.  Over the years guide services will try and force you into a Chinese owned hotel.  I insist on staying at the Yak because of there great location, within walking distance of Barkhor Square, Old Town section and many good restaurants.  It is also very clean with tradition Tibetan decorations.

 

The hotel does have storage so if you want to leave bags at the hotel when you check out to explore the rest of Tibet, there is no problem.  They also have a reliable laundry service.  Breakfast is included with your stay.  Past years, breakfast was served on the roof. It provided great views of Lhasa and the Potala.  However, my last visit in 2019, the breakfast room moved to a level below the roof.

Attached to the Yak Hotel is a great restaurant and bar called Dunya. A good place to relax at the end of the day.

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Category: Tibet

My first trip to Tibet was in 2006. This is the year I have the fondest memories. It was very wide open at that time because the railroad into Lhasa was not complete and there were few tourist. You still needed a permit but there was no tour guide requirement. I was able to take a bus, on my own, anywhere I like. People seemed friendlier as well. I don’t speak any Chinese and taught myself a few Tibetan phrases but it was still easy to get around.

But my fondest memory of all was during a bus ride from Shigatse to Shalu. During the ride it was only me and a small group of Tibetan women ranging in age from mid 20’s to very old. I was sitting across from them and they kept staring at me and giggling. Finally, the oldest of the group leaned over to me and grabbed the hair on my arm and they all started laughing! Apparently, from what I could tell, they rarely see a man with hair on his arms. Then they started pointing to my eyes. The only thing I could tell from that was that I have blue eyes which is rarely seen here. It is possible these women were on a pilgrimage from a remote area. That would explain their reaction. Made for a very memorable experience!

In 2007, the railroad was complete and changed things forever. I took 5 students here and I was surprised at the amount of tourist.

2013

This most recent trip saw many changes in Tibet. Mandatory guides, check points leaving and entering cities. Airport type screening when entering some monasteries, and popular shopping areas. Strict rules on the purchase of gas.

Many of these changes were imposed after serious rioting in 2008. The rules on purchasing gas is a sad reminder of the extent some Tibetans will go to show their opposition to Chinese occupation. Last year over 100 Tibetan lit themselves on fire with gas in protest of Chinese occupation and the exile of the Dali Lama.

That being said, I made the best of things and still saw some amazing things. For Monasteries, the ones that should not be missed are Sera, Yumbulagang, Samye and Tashilhunpo
Most memorable of 2013

Having the opportunity to visit Mount Everest was a highlight but the distance and road conditions really take away from the trip. Two events however, were extremely memorable for me. The first was when I decided to change my set itinerary to visit some smaller, often overlooked monasteries. One in particular was Nalendra. The scene driving up into the monastery, through the ruins as a result of the cultural revolution and to see rebuilding in progress was moving. But what really hit home was the time I spent with one Monk who offered me a meal and told me of the rebuilding. Something I will never forget.

The other was a much lighter note. It came when I visited Samye Monastery. While walking the inner Kora, I came across a good number of Monks practicing a dance as Tibetan horns were practiced in the background. The Monks were all smiling and joking. It really seemed they were having a great time and had no problem with me taking it all in. Fortunately I got some video so I can look back and remember this moment.

House of Shambhala

 

House of Shambhala is my favorite restaurant in Lhasa.  It is on the top floor of a boutique hotel by the same name.  The location is an old monastery that housed monks and offices. The rooms were converted to hotel rooms with bathrooms but no windows.  Very unique and pricey. Would love to stay here one time.

Over the years the restaurant has moved from the roof to a room on the top floor.  You can no longer dine on the room but you can lounge up there and carry up a drink from the small bar inside the restaurant.  The restaurant is dark but cozy with limited seating.  Not many people know about this place so I’ve never had to wait for a table.  Shambhala has an extensive menu with the highlights being their various Momo’s and curry dishes.  However, the best dish here is the Yak steak.  Well season in a tasty sauce and a double portion from what your would receive at other restaurants.  Always perfectly prepared.  This is a must try when in Lhasa!

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Category: Tibet

My first trip to Tibet was in 2006. This is the year I have the fondest memories. It was very wide open at that time because the railroad into Lhasa was not complete and there were few tourist. You still needed a permit but there was no tour guide requirement. I was able to take a bus, on my own, anywhere I like. People seemed friendlier as well. I don’t speak any Chinese and taught myself a few Tibetan phrases but it was still easy to get around.

But my fondest memory of all was during a bus ride from Shigatse to Shalu. During the ride it was only me and a small group of Tibetan women ranging in age from mid 20’s to very old. I was sitting across from them and they kept staring at me and giggling. Finally, the oldest of the group leaned over to me and grabbed the hair on my arm and they all started laughing! Apparently, from what I could tell, they rarely see a man with hair on his arms. Then they started pointing to my eyes. The only thing I could tell from that was that I have blue eyes which is rarely seen here. It is possible these women were on a pilgrimage from a remote area. That would explain their reaction. Made for a very memorable experience!

In 2007, the railroad was complete and changed things forever. I took 5 students here and I was surprised at the amount of tourist.

2013

This most recent trip saw many changes in Tibet. Mandatory guides, check points leaving and entering cities. Airport type screening when entering some monasteries, and popular shopping areas. Strict rules on the purchase of gas.

Many of these changes were imposed after serious rioting in 2008. The rules on purchasing gas is a sad reminder of the extent some Tibetans will go to show their opposition to Chinese occupation. Last year over 100 Tibetan lit themselves on fire with gas in protest of Chinese occupation and the exile of the Dali Lama.

That being said, I made the best of things and still saw some amazing things. For Monasteries, the ones that should not be missed are Sera, Yumbulagang, Samye and Tashilhunpo
Most memorable of 2013

Having the opportunity to visit Mount Everest was a highlight but the distance and road conditions really take away from the trip. Two events however, were extremely memorable for me. The first was when I decided to change my set itinerary to visit some smaller, often overlooked monasteries. One in particular was Nalendra. The scene driving up into the monastery, through the ruins as a result of the cultural revolution and to see rebuilding in progress was moving. But what really hit home was the time I spent with one Monk who offered me a meal and told me of the rebuilding. Something I will never forget.

The other was a much lighter note. It came when I visited Samye Monastery. While walking the inner Kora, I came across a good number of Monks practicing a dance as Tibetan horns were practiced in the background. The Monks were all smiling and joking. It really seemed they were having a great time and had no problem with me taking it all in. Fortunately I got some video so I can look back and remember this moment.

Snowland Restaurant

 

Snowland Restaurant is a long time favorite with tourist.  It has been around a long time and outlasted many other restaurants even going back to my first visit in 2006.  It is located on the second floor of a building along Danjielin Rd.  When walking in from Beijing East rd, it is on the left.  In the past the restaurant had large letters “SNOWLAND” which is no longer there so took me a while to find it this time.

They offer Tibetan and Nepali food.  The best dish I’ve had here is the Yak steak and french fries.  Service can be very slow.  You have to be assertive with the wait staff or you will sit there all day.  Also this location is very convenient when visiting Jokhang Monastery.

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Category: Tibet

My first trip to Tibet was in 2006. This is the year I have the fondest memories. It was very wide open at that time because the railroad into Lhasa was not complete and there were few tourist. You still needed a permit but there was no tour guide requirement. I was able to take a bus, on my own, anywhere I like. People seemed friendlier as well. I don’t speak any Chinese and taught myself a few Tibetan phrases but it was still easy to get around.

But my fondest memory of all was during a bus ride from Shigatse to Shalu. During the ride it was only me and a small group of Tibetan women ranging in age from mid 20’s to very old. I was sitting across from them and they kept staring at me and giggling. Finally, the oldest of the group leaned over to me and grabbed the hair on my arm and they all started laughing! Apparently, from what I could tell, they rarely see a man with hair on his arms. Then they started pointing to my eyes. The only thing I could tell from that was that I have blue eyes which is rarely seen here. It is possible these women were on a pilgrimage from a remote area. That would explain their reaction. Made for a very memorable experience!

In 2007, the railroad was complete and changed things forever. I took 5 students here and I was surprised at the amount of tourist.

2013

This most recent trip saw many changes in Tibet. Mandatory guides, check points leaving and entering cities. Airport type screening when entering some monasteries, and popular shopping areas. Strict rules on the purchase of gas.

Many of these changes were imposed after serious rioting in 2008. The rules on purchasing gas is a sad reminder of the extent some Tibetans will go to show their opposition to Chinese occupation. Last year over 100 Tibetan lit themselves on fire with gas in protest of Chinese occupation and the exile of the Dali Lama.

That being said, I made the best of things and still saw some amazing things. For Monasteries, the ones that should not be missed are Sera, Yumbulagang, Samye and Tashilhunpo
Most memorable of 2013

Having the opportunity to visit Mount Everest was a highlight but the distance and road conditions really take away from the trip. Two events however, were extremely memorable for me. The first was when I decided to change my set itinerary to visit some smaller, often overlooked monasteries. One in particular was Nalendra. The scene driving up into the monastery, through the ruins as a result of the cultural revolution and to see rebuilding in progress was moving. But what really hit home was the time I spent with one Monk who offered me a meal and told me of the rebuilding. Something I will never forget.

The other was a much lighter note. It came when I visited Samye Monastery. While walking the inner Kora, I came across a good number of Monks practicing a dance as Tibetan horns were practiced in the background. The Monks were all smiling and joking. It really seemed they were having a great time and had no problem with me taking it all in. Fortunately I got some video so I can look back and remember this moment.

Tibetan Family Kitchen

 

This is my new favorite restaurant in Lhasa.  Tibetan family owned, very friendly people.  The restaurant is just off the Johkar Kora on the second floor.  There is good signage but take note, you have to walk down a short alley on the right of the building to the stairs in the back.

The first visit I had the Yak steak which was prepared perfectly but overall a good experience.  On my second visit I discovered Hachis Parmentier, which is minced Yak meat filled into mashed potato and baked.  The flavors were out of the world! I was able to fit another visit in here before my final day in Lhasa.  Highly recommend!

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Category: Tibet

My first trip to Tibet was in 2006. This is the year I have the fondest memories. It was very wide open at that time because the railroad into Lhasa was not complete and there were few tourist. You still needed a permit but there was no tour guide requirement. I was able to take a bus, on my own, anywhere I like. People seemed friendlier as well. I don’t speak any Chinese and taught myself a few Tibetan phrases but it was still easy to get around.

But my fondest memory of all was during a bus ride from Shigatse to Shalu. During the ride it was only me and a small group of Tibetan women ranging in age from mid 20’s to very old. I was sitting across from them and they kept staring at me and giggling. Finally, the oldest of the group leaned over to me and grabbed the hair on my arm and they all started laughing! Apparently, from what I could tell, they rarely see a man with hair on his arms. Then they started pointing to my eyes. The only thing I could tell from that was that I have blue eyes which is rarely seen here. It is possible these women were on a pilgrimage from a remote area. That would explain their reaction. Made for a very memorable experience!

In 2007, the railroad was complete and changed things forever. I took 5 students here and I was surprised at the amount of tourist.

2013

This most recent trip saw many changes in Tibet. Mandatory guides, check points leaving and entering cities. Airport type screening when entering some monasteries, and popular shopping areas. Strict rules on the purchase of gas.

Many of these changes were imposed after serious rioting in 2008. The rules on purchasing gas is a sad reminder of the extent some Tibetans will go to show their opposition to Chinese occupation. Last year over 100 Tibetan lit themselves on fire with gas in protest of Chinese occupation and the exile of the Dali Lama.

That being said, I made the best of things and still saw some amazing things. For Monasteries, the ones that should not be missed are Sera, Yumbulagang, Samye and Tashilhunpo
Most memorable of 2013

Having the opportunity to visit Mount Everest was a highlight but the distance and road conditions really take away from the trip. Two events however, were extremely memorable for me. The first was when I decided to change my set itinerary to visit some smaller, often overlooked monasteries. One in particular was Nalendra. The scene driving up into the monastery, through the ruins as a result of the cultural revolution and to see rebuilding in progress was moving. But what really hit home was the time I spent with one Monk who offered me a meal and told me of the rebuilding. Something I will never forget.

The other was a much lighter note. It came when I visited Samye Monastery. While walking the inner Kora, I came across a good number of Monks practicing a dance as Tibetan horns were practiced in the background. The Monks were all smiling and joking. It really seemed they were having a great time and had no problem with me taking it all in. Fortunately I got some video so I can look back and remember this moment.

Lhasa

Lhasa, the capitol of Tibet. A wonderful city that is starting to lose its appeal to modernization and construction of hotels and malls. Still there is much to see. It is best to spend at least 2-3 days when you arrive in Lhasa due to the altitude. At 12,000 feet above sea level, most people will experience various symptoms of altitude sickness which includes headache, nausea, vomiting and/or ataxia. The only cure for
this is descend to a lower altitude or wait. During this first few days, taking in the main attractions of Tibet is in order. The main attractions being Monasteries. The focal point of Lhasa of course is the Potala, home of the Dali Lama. There are three other important monasteries in Lhasa. The Jokhang is usually referred to as the most important monastery in Tibet. The other two monasteries are near the outskirts of Lhasa. Sera Monastery is important to see and usually has a lot going on. It’s not uncommon to see Monks in Debating Class or Chanting in the Main Hall. The last would be Drepung.

 

Walking the city, for Kora’s or fun
When you are feeling up to it, walking the city is a must. Many people overlook walking the Kora of a Monastery. The easiest two is the Jokhang Kora and the Potala Kora A bit more ambition, but not by much would be the Sera Kora where it is a little longer and you can see wonderfully carved and painted Buddhas in the rocks along the Kora.
Beyond the Monasteries
There is much more to do in Lhasa beside visiting monasteries. Shopping the local vendors at the designated government mall(used to be around Barkhor Square) could take nearly an entire day. Another worthwhile adventure is to take the day to explore the old section of Lhasa. As you walk the Jokhang Kora, there are roads entering the area. Back in this area is where to experience the real Tibet and it’s people.

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