Banteay Srei – The City of Women

Located about an hour by Tuk Tuk, north of Angkor Archaeological Park, Bantaey Srei has some amazing architecture and stone carvings so intricate, it is said they could only be carved by the delicate hands of women.  Enter the complex way of a restored stone causeway.

Photo by: John Maurizi

Once through the gate continue straight until you reach a moat.  Across the moat are beautiful temples carved from red sandstone.  There is also a trail that goes around the moat.  It is very short by offers different views

Photo by: John Maurizi

Photo by: John Maurizi

Photo by: John Maurizi

Kbal Spean

The next stop further to the north is Kbal Spean.  The area is known for Hindu deities carved into the stone in the river bed along with “Lingas” (Phallic symbols).  There is not much water during the high season.  It is a 2km up hill hike along a well defined and maintained trail to the river bed.

(Trail up to Kbal Spean) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Kbal Spean) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Kbal Spean) Photo by: John Maurizi

Cambodia Landmine Museum

On the way back to Siem Reap, be sure to stop at the Cambodia Landmine Museum.  This is more than a museum.  They raise funds to help clear areas through Cambodia that still have Vietnam era landmines.  Children playing fields are still injured by these mines.  It is an informative stop and a good cause to support.

Photo by: John Maurizi

Note:  Your Tuk Tuk driver will more than likely ask for more money to travel this far, not really because of time but more to do with the amount of fuel.  It could range between $5 and $10 additional to the $20 rate you should have set the first day.

Angkor Thom Wall Trail

Looking for a different experience and seldom visited temples, I came across a map that implied several different trails throughout Angkor.  The first, and the longest of the hikes, is a trail atop the Angkor Thom Wall.  Many don’t even know this wall exists.  They simple pass through the South Gate in route to the temples.

I started this hike from the South Gate and traveled in a clockwise direction.  After passing through the South Gate, I had my Tuk Tuk driver drop me off and asked him to meet me back in 3 hours.  Looking south at the gate, ascend the right side up a short hill.  Once on top, the trail is obvious.

(South Gate moat bridge as seen from the wall trail) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Southwest section of the Angkor Thom Wall trail) Photo by: John Maurizi

After less than one mile, you reach Chrung Temple.  This is a small outpost temple and probably one of the least visited sites at Angkor Thom along with the other corner temples you will encounter along the wall.

(Chrung Temple) Photo by: John Maurizi

Turn right continuing to follow the obvious trail with the moat to the left.  The trail is flat and a joy to hike. After about one mile you will reach the West Gate to Angkor Thom.  This gate, again seldom visited, is the only major gate at Angkor that is still only a dirt road making for more great photo opportunities.

(West Gate from atop the Angkor Thom Wall trail) Photo by:John Maurizi

Descend from the trail to the right and cross the road.  Take a moment to enjoy the peace of the West Gate absent of tourist.  Pass through the West Gate for a different view. To get back atop the wall, cross the road and ascend a short but steep hill and continue on the trail.

(West Gate of Angkor Thom) Photo by: John Maurizi

This northwest section is the most shaded along the hike.  The trail curves through the forest like hiking in a fairy tale.  This was one of my favorite sections.  After another mile you will reach the Northwest corner temple called Prasat Chrung.  It is a surreal feeling coming upon this small temple.

(Northwest section between the West Gate and Prasat Chrung) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Prasat Chrung – Northwest) Photo by: John Maurizi

Turn the corner and continue to the North Gate.  As you approach the North Gate from the trail, you are nearly eye level with the west facing Buddha atop the Gate.  Amazing detail.  The North Gate, to me, is more photogenic from different angles than the other three gates.

(West side of the North Gate from the trail) Photo by: John Maurizi

Descend the trail to the right.  As you approach the road, be sure to look back up at the North Gate for another unique view of the west and south facing Buddhas.

(West and South facing Buddhas at the North Gate) Photo by John Maurizi

Once on the road, pass through the gate and turn right to follow the trail, after a short distance there is a break in the wall in a short steep hill where you can gain access to the trail again.  Be sure to look back behind you before ascending the wall for another unique view of the North Gate.

(Looking back at the North Gate and the east facing Buddha) Photo by: John Maurizi

The trail continues to the northeast corner and another Chrung Temple which is in more disrepair.  Soon after turning this corner you will reach the Victory Gate.  Descend to the right, cross the road and ascend back onto the trail.

(Victory Gate) Photo by: John Maurizi

After a shorter distance you reach the East Gate, also known as Gate of the Dead.  The distance is short because the Victory Gate and the East Gate are both on the east side of Angkor Thom.  The trail between the Victory Gate and the East Gate is amazing.  The East Gate is different from the other gates because it is a dead end road just past the gate.  Hardly anyone travels back here.

(Trail from Victory Gate to East Gate) Photo by: John Maurizi

The southeast corner is the last on the trail and the location of the Hendrix Temple which is in the best condition of the corner temples.  After turning this last corner, the trail opens up a bit and you have excellent views of the Angkor Thom moat.

(Hendrix Temple) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Trail between the Hendrix Temple and the South Gate) Photo by: John Maurizi

The trail ends at the South Gate where you started.  In total, the trail is a little less than 8 miles with the only elevation change being from descending and ascending the Gates.  Your Tuk Tuk driver should be there waiting.  It’s a good idea to get a bite to eat before the next adventure.

Angkor Wat Trail

The next hike for this day is amazing and another that is seldom traveled although it is in the heart of Angkor.  This trail circles Angkor Wat along a patch of land between the Angkor Wat moat and the out wall of the temple.

(West side of Angkor Wat) Photo by: John Maurizi

From the West entrance, after crossing the moat, turn left and follow a boardwalk/trail.  Soon the boardwalk ends and turns to a dirt trail about where the wall begins.  Turn the first corner with great views of the moat along the trail.  Soon you will reach Ta Loek, the north gate.  While most flock to the center of Angkor Wat, few visit these outer gate entrances.

Photo by: John Maurizi

(Ta Loek – the north gate to Angkor Wat) Photo by: John Maurizi

The trail continues, rounding the next corner.  The next gate is the East Gate which is more popular because you can cross the moat here and have a shorter walk to access the center of Angkor Wat.  It is also much more shaded than the West entrance.

(East Gate – Ta Kuo. View from inside the wall) Photo by: John Maurizi

The last Gate you encounter is the South Gate known as Ta Pech.  This by far is the least visited of all the gates.  Passing this and rounding the last corner, the trail enters a dense forest area unlike any other part of the trail.  Soon you emerge to the west side of Angkor Wat.

(South Gate – Ta Pech) Photo by: John Maurizi

The trail is only two miles but take time to explore the gates and peace of this seldom traveled trail.

With time remaining in the day and if you have enough energy, there is more to explore within the walls of Angkor Wat.  Of special interest to me and others who are fascinated with the history of the Khmer people, take time to view the bas-reliefs surrounding the outer galleries.  Also, the stone carvings of Apsaras are outstanding.

Day two of exploring Angkor starts with a visit to Angkor Wat for sunrise. Then it’s on to the Grand Circuit.

To watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat, take every advantage of the early 5:00am opening to hike in to the reflecting pool to claim a spot close to the waters edge.  The area will be overwhelmed with tourist fighting for a spot.  Be sure to remember your headlamp!

(Angkor Wat at sunrise) Photo by: John Maurizi

The Grand Circuit

After the sun rises, don’t waste time as there is much to see on the Grand Circuit.  You have to head back out the west gate of Angkor Wat to meet back up with your Tuk Tuk driver.  The Grand Circuit starts back through the South Gate of Angkor Thom.  Make Bayon your first stop.  Today, take some time to explore the outer galleries of Bayon.  They tell an incredible story of Khmer life during the 12th century and before.

(Bas-relief of Khmer army going into battle) Photo by: John Maurizi

(The perils of doing battle from dug-out canoes) Photo by: John Maurizi

After leaving Bayon Temple, the Grand Circuit passes through the Palace area of Angkor Thom.  This is an opportunity to explore the Palace area more closely.  The Tuk Tuk driver can leave you at the causeway to Baphuon Temple.  After walking back to Baphuon, circle to the back and follow a trail to the right as it passes through a wall gate.  This trail will link to another temple, Phimeanakas.

(Phimeanakas) Photo by: John Maurizi

Passing by the back of Phimeanakas, the trail continues to the Royal Pools called Sras Srei.  Take some time to walk around the two pools.  There is a trail and is rather short.  To continue exploring, pass through another wall gate as the trail meanders through the forest until you reach Preah Palilay, another small temple set back off the road.  Turn right and walk back out to the road, just across from the food vendors.

(Sras Srei – the Royal Palace Pools) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Preah Palilay) Photo by: John Maurizi

After a bite to eat, the Grand Circuit continues, this time through the North Gate of Angkor Thom.  The next temple on the tour is Preah Khan.  This is a bigger temple and definitely deserves more time to explore.  It is up there as one of my favorites.  One item not to miss is the “Light of the Stupa.”  Located in a center hallway of the complex, when you are positioned just right, it appears as a flame is coming from the top of the stupa.  Actually, the flame is only openings in the ceiling of the hall but a nice photo opportunity.

(Light of the Stupa) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Preah Khan Library) Photo by: John Maurizi

Throughout the Preah Khan complex you will find wonderful overgrown courtyards and the stone carvings here are in excellent condition. Take particular note to the dancing Apsara’s over doors and walkways.

(one of many Preah Khan courtyards) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Dancing Apsara’s at Preah Khan) Photo by: John Maurizi

There is also an excellent trail around the Preah Khan complex.  I recommend hiking the trail first and then exploring the interior of the temple.  You can return to the road the way you walked in to meet your Tuk Tuk driver.

The next stop on the Grand Circuit is Neak Pean.  This unique location is said to be an ancient healing spa.  There is no temple at the location but has some interesting features.

(Neak Pean) Photo by: John Maurizi

From Neak Pean it’s a short distance to the next temple on the circuit, Ta Som.  Ta Som is an out and back walk with the highlight being the much photographed East Gate of the temple.  It’s deceptive since you approach the gate from the west.  Walk through the gate to see what all the fuss is about!

(East Gate of Ta Som) Photo by: John Maurizi

Next stop is East Mebon.  This temple is of the Mount Meru style in that is has three tiers with a central tower on top at the center.  This central tower is surrounded by four smaller towers but impressive just the same.  Take note of the stone elephants found throughout East Mebon, a rather unique feature from other temples at Angkor.

(Stone Elephant at East Mebon) Photo by: John Maurizi

The Last stop on the Grand Circuit is another Mountain style temple called Pre Rup.  Pre Rup is one of the temples that are popular for either sunrise or sunset.  I’ve experienced both here and prefer sunset.  Late in the day, there are few people around.  Pre Rup is located right on the road so there is not a long walk in.  There is a trail that circles around the temple which I recommend doing first, especially late in the day.  The stone illuminates in the setting sun unlike any other temple at Angkor. There is still enough time to hang out and chill on the top platform and watch an unobstructed view of the sun setting and the end to another amazing day in Angkor.

(Pre Rup) Photo by: John Maurizi

A look into my experiences over three visits to this popular UNESCO site, including Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom to the less visited sites and adventures like hiking the Angkor Thom Wall. The park is a look back in time of the Khmer people and the structures the Kings built. But a closer look will reveal much more of their religion, daily life and life and death of the wars they fought to survive.

Exploring Angkor has always been a dream of mine.  My first visit did not disappoint to the extent that I returned another two times and I’m sure I will return again.  There is so much to see and learn about this fascinating culture.  Their history is documented in the many bas-reliefs found at Angkor Wat and Bayon Temple, it is truly worthwhile to take some time to examine.

Arriving to Siem Reap, your base for this adventure is quite easy.  For U.S. Citizens, you can obtain a “visa upon arrival” which costs about $35.  Every year there seems to be an increase. Cambodia immigration requires you to present a passport photo for their records however, for $2.00 they will take your photo.  This is a source of much anxiety when arriving but the Cambodian immigration officials have a good sense of humor.  I recall during my first visit, while waiting in line, an official announced loudly to the lines, “if you have no photo we will throw you in jail” followed by the official letting out a loud laugh.  This did not stop the blood from rushing out of many faces to the thought of spending vacation in a Cambodian jail.

Some important information, nearly everyone in Siem Reap speaks English.  Also, no need to change any money.  The locals prefer U.S. dollars.  Once out of the airport, it is easy to get transportation to Siem Reap.  I recommend a Tuk Tuk driver which will cost about $7 – $10 usd. Negotiation is key when dealing with any Tuk Tuk driver.

(Tuk Tuk) Photo by: John Maurizi

After checking into the hotel, the next step is to hire a Tuk Tuk driver to take you around the park. You can arrange one through the hotel or you could have negotiated a deal with the driver that took you from the airport.  I’ve done both and the best experience is hiring a driver through the hotel.  This usually cost about $20 per day.  A great deal considering the driver is with you the entire day.

Now for the tours.  Do not try and purchase the entry ticket to Angkor in the early morning in an effort to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat.  Although the ticket windows open at 5:00am, by the time you get to Angkor Wat, there are hoards of people set up with tripods in front of the reflecting pool.  You can purchase the ticket the day before if you want to see sunrise at Angkor Wat first.  Keep in mind that purchasing the ticket the day before still counts as a day from you ticket.  Options are 1 day ticket – $37 usd, 3 day ticket – $62.00 usd and 7 day ticket – $72.00 usd.  When I purchase my ticket early morning I choose to go to Bayon in Angkor Thom, only a few minutes from Angkor Wat.  The sunrise here is unique.

(Bayon at sunrise) Photo by: John Maurizi

Some changes have been enacted as to the time and locations for sunrise.  Effective in 2017, only Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng and Pre Rup can be accessed at 5:00am.  All the other temple sites are accessible at 7:30am.  They are very serious about this and every site has security.  You can view Bayon from the parking area and watch the sun slowly light up the Buddha faces of Bayon.

The Small Circuit

After sunrise, the Tuk Tuk driver will take you on your choice of unofficial tours known as the Small Circuit and the Grand Circuit.  The first day, I always go with the Small Circuit.  The first temple on the Small Circuit is Angkor Wat however, pass on by for now (best to explore in the late afternoon). The next group of temples are rather small but worth a stop.  Your Tuk Tuk driver will wait while you walk in and check out Baksei Chamkrong.  Follow a short path to the right to see Prasat Bei.

(Baksei Chamkrong) Photo by: John Maurizi

This small group of temples is just before crossing over the Angkor Thom Moat and passing through the South Gate.  This is an impressive gate that offers great photo opportunities early in the morning.

(South Gate to Angkor Thom) Photo by: John Maurizi

After passing through the South Gate, in a few minutes you will reach Bayon Temple.  Known for the “200 Faces of Buddha” it can take some time to explore.  I like to visit and explore in the morning and return late afternoon.  Most of the tourist are gone late afternoon and it’s easier to take photos without someone bombing your shot.

(A few of the “200 Faces of Bayon”) Photo by: John Maurizi

The next stop after Bayon Temple is the Palace area of Angkor Thom.  This area takes time to explore as well.  You can see the main attractions by having your Tuk Tuk driver leave you at the entrance to Baphuon Temple.  Walk back to Baphuon along a causeway then back out to the road.  This causeway is connected to the Elephant Terrace (be sure to check out the front of the terrace!) which you can walk on north towards the Terrace of the Leper King.

(Elephant Terrace) Photo by: John Maurizi

You can have your Tuk Tuk driver wait for you at the north end where you can exit the Terrace of the Leper King.  Be sure to walk through the recessed Leper King Terrace.

(The Leper King) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Terrace of the Leper King) Photo by: John Maurizi

Across from the Leper King Terrace is a souvenir and food stall area.  It’s a good place to get a bite to eat before continuing with the Small Circuit.  The Small Circuit leaves Angkor Thom through the Victory Gate.  Another impressive Gate, this gate is where returning Khmer armies would return from battle.

(Victory Gate leaving Angkor Thom) Photo by: John Maurizi

After passing through the Victory Gate and over the moat, there are two small temples worth a visit.  To the left is Thommanon Temple and directly across the road on the right is Chau Say Tevoda Temple.

(Thommanon Temple) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Chau Say Tevoda Temple) Photo by: John Maurizi

Next on the Small Circuit is Ta Prohm.  I’ve always been drawn to Ta Prohm for several reasons.  It’s larger than some of the other temples and in more of a jungle setting. But most importantly, Ta Prohm is where you get the first full experience of how the jungle over took the temples of Angkor.  While much of the jungle has been cleared back and most of the structures reconstructed, some of the jungle is simply embedded into the stone walls and fixtures.  The best way to explore Ta Prohm is to have the Tuk Tuk drive drop you off at the west entrance of the temple and have the driver wait at the east entrance.  For an added adventure, there is a trail that weaves in and out of the outer wall surrounding the temple.  Hike around the temple and follow the trail back to the west and then explore the interior.  Ta Prohm is excellent in the early morning (7:30am opening).  Worth an early morning return on another day.

(Jungle over taking Ta Prohm) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Trail around Ta Prohm) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Jungle over taking Ta Prohm) Photo by: John Maurizi

Just across the road and to the east of Ta Prohm is another excellent temple to explore on the Circuit, Bantaey Kdei. Again, you can enter from the west and exit at the east end where the Tuk Tuk driver can wait for you.

(Bantaey Kdei) Photo by: John Maurizi

(Entrance to Bantaey Kdei) Photo by: John Maurizi

Last stop on the Small Circuit is a small temple with three towers called Prasat Kraven.

(Prasat Kraven) Photo by: John Maurizi

While this is the end of the Small Circuit, there should be plenty of time to go to Angkor Wat and explore a bit.  Angkor Wat is usually very crowded most of the day however, very late in the day is an ideal time to explore.  Sunsets at Angkor Wat is just as impressive as sunrise, just different.

(Angkor Wat from the inner reflecting pool at sunset) Photo by: John Maurizi

Angkor Wat closes at 5:30pm.  You will easily know the time as security walks throughout the temple blowing a whistle and telling everyone to leave.

So it’s back to Siem Reap. For me, my first stop is always to The Sun for a cold bottle of Cambodia Lager Beer and reflect on the days’ adventure.

Photo by: John Maurizi

Over the years Pub Street has grown from a nice street with a few bars to it’s current state which can rival the party scene in Bangkok.  In fact, while Bangkok has eliminated the mobile van bars, Siem Reap has adopted them.  Now, Pub street not only has clubs and bars but the street is lined with these van bars that blast music to the wee hours of the morning.  Not my scene at all.  Things start happening at 11pm and the music blares, even if no one is present and the street is abandoned.