Travel and Adventure
Lhasa, the capitol of Tibet. A wonderful city that is starting to lose its appeal to modernization and construction of hotels and malls. Still there is much to see. It is best to spend at least 2-3 days when you arrive in Lhasa due to the altitude. At 12,000 feet above sea level, most people will experience various symptoms of altitude sickness which includes headache, nausea, vomiting and/or ataxia. The only cure for
this is descend to a lower altitude or wait. During this first few days, taking in the main attractions of Tibet is in order. The main attractions being Monasteries. The focal point of Lhasa of course is the Potala, home of the Dali Lama. There are three other important monasteries in Lhasa. The Jokhang is usually referred to as the most important monastery in Tibet. The other two monasteries are near the outskirts of Lhasa. Sera Monastery is important to see and usually has a lot going on. It’s not uncommon to see Monks in Debating Class or Chanting in the Main Hall. The last would be Drepung.
Walking the city, for Kora’s or fun
When you are feeling up to it, walking the city is a must. Many people overlook walking the Kora of a Monastery. The easiest two is the Jokhang Kora and the Potala Kora A bit more ambition, but not by much would be the Sera Kora where it is a little longer and you can see wonderfully carved and painted Buddhas in the rocks along the Kora.
Beyond the Monasteries
There is much more to do in Lhasa beside visiting monasteries. Shopping the local vendors at the designated government mall(used to be around Barkhor Square) could take nearly an entire day. Another worthwhile adventure is to take the day to explore the old section of Lhasa. As you walk the Jokhang Kora, there are roads entering the area. Back in this area is where to experience the real Tibet and it’s people.
Tibet has always been one of my favorite destinations. I have now visited Tibet 4 times, 2006, 2007, 2013 and 2019. While still a beautiful destination, it saddens me to see the changes occurring throughout the country. Others may not see the decline of Tibetan culture unless you visited here prior to 2017. In 2006, while you did need a special entry Visa, they were easy to obtain. And the best part, you did not need to go through a travel service and once you were in Lhasa, you were free to travel about and take buses to any town or location you desire. Unfortunately that changed after 2008 and now there is strictly no independent travel other than being permitted to walk around Lhasa or Shigatse without your guide. Now you are required to book through a guide service who provide an English/Tibetan speaking guide and a Chinese driver.
As you would imaging, it is very expensive now almost to a point where not many people can afford to go. This is taking a serious toll on the local Tibetan economy. This last visit I hardly saw any Westerners or Europeans. Many locations are now tourist traps however, you can still get a sense of the old ways if you explore a bit.
Dinning at Don Julio is a wonderful experience. While I didn’t have a reservation, they were able to seat me at the bar. While I was waiting outside, the hostess gave me and everyone waiting, a glass of champagne. This happened each of the three times I dined here during this last trip. One night they even came out and served hors d’oeuvres.
I was seated at the bar which only has room for two. A small basket of bread is immediately placed in front me along with small spreads which was very good. I started off with one sweetcorn empanada. Which was excellent. For the main course I had the beef tenderloin and a side order on mashed potatoes.
The steak was cooked perfectly to medium-rare. I highly recommend! Also, the sweetcorn empanada was so good, the next time I ate here I order two and another two to take away. Reservations are highly recommended!
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